Wednesday, September 7, 2011

Memoirs of a T-Shirt

This post is by contributing blogger Daniella Svoboda Schmidt, an experienced public school master teacher, a graduate of our M.Ed. program, and a humane educator specializing in engaging others in the positive power of food citizenship through The Thinkatarian Food Club. She currently lives in Germany with her husband and son.

 

I am recovering from an addiction to consumerism. Specifically, I would label myself as a recuperating fashion addict. For almost my entire adult life, I thought that my retail therapy was a relatively benign indulgence and even a patriotic pastime as I boosted the economy, snapping up deals right and left. In my previous blog post I shared how the short, but amazing video, The Story of Stuff, cured me instantly of my affluenza. In just 20 life-changing minutes, The Story of Stuff radically expanded my understanding of how my purchases have broad and far reaching effects that are far more complex than just an exchange of money for a product.

Where did my purchases come from before I bought them, and where will they go after I am through with them?  Each and every purchase has a secret life—a life that came from resources extracted from the Earth and will eventually return to the Earth.  I decided to find out more about the secret pasts of my belongings.

I became interested in the lifecycle of my stuff and decided to investigate the lifecycle of one very plain, uncomplicated cotton T-shirt.  My conventional (non-organic) cotton T-shirt’s memoirs might read something like this (the facts from this text come from here and from the report “From the Plant to the T-shirt”):

I begin my life in an enormous cotton field in India.  Because I am a cotton plant, I am a thirsty crop and must be frequently watered—this drains the nearby lake and leaves less water for the people, animals and plants that depend on it.  The soil I grow in becomes more and more salty and less fertile over time.  I am also sprayed with pesticides, making the remaining water sources undrinkable.  The pesticides kill the insects that find me tasty, but they also decimate other forms of life.  The farmers and the cotton pickers that come in contact with me often get sick, and some of them even die.  These laborers are also paid very little for very hard work under the fierce sun.
Once picked, I am spun into thread, and woven into cloth by giant whirling machines.  The cloth is then processed; dyeing and bleaching, and other treatments to the fabric, also contaminate the water supply and expose the poorly paid workers to dangerous chemicals that harm their health.  Now that I am fabric, I am cut and sewn into T-shirts in sweatshops. 


As a finished T-shirt, I am loaded onto a truck and driven to a port to be transported by freighter across oceans.  Then I am unloaded onto trucks to be shipped to clothing retailers in all the big cities around the world.  I end up in a high fashion store in London.


I look great in the High Street store under the halogen lighting--freshly ironed, richly colored, and with a snazzy design. I attract the attention of a fashionably dressed buyer who buys me with a casual swipe of a credit card. 


Now I am one of many t-shirts in my owner’s closet, each with a lifestory similar to mine.  I get worn now and then. And I am put into the washing machine just after one wearing, so I am not even really dirty. Lots of water and detergent is used to clean me and then I use even more energy when dried by the clothes dryer. In fact, 80% of my environmental impact occurs while laundering and drying me.  I shed lots of my cotton fibers in the dryer and get worn out pretty quickly as a result. When my owner thinks that I look outdated, I am thrown into the garbage can, which will be dumped eventually into a landfill. If I am lucky to be buried in some moist dirt, I will biodegrade in about six months or so and complete my journey back to the Earth, but since I am in a landfill with lots of other stuff, I’ll have to wait much longer. . .


Not so long ago, I was just a cotton seedling, but I have seen so much in my lifecycle, passed under so many nimble and weary fingers, and traveled so far that I can scarcely remember my birth in the field back under the blazing Indian sun.


I must admit, I had not expected my T-shirt to have such a soiled past.  Now, I look at all my clothing from a different perspective, a better informed one.  From intensive water usage, to soil degradation, to loss of biodiversity, to the pesticides, bleaches and dyes tainting the water, and the suffering of the people involved in the production of the shirt, paid slavish wages in inhumane working conditions—all of this is spun into the threads of such an unassuming piece of clothing.

The fantastic news is that there is quite a lot we can do as conscious consumers.  Buying second hand or swapping between friends instantly saves the earth’s resources and opts out of unfair labor practices.  When making new purchases, buying organic and fair trade clothing supports sustainable agriculture and ensures that the people involved in making our clothing are paid a living wage and work in fair conditions.  And because most of our clothing’s environmental impact occurs while in our care—laundering our clothing only when necessary, in cool water, using environmentally friendly cleaning products, and line drying whenever possible (I am able to do it year round despite living in a cool climate because we have a covered place to dry our clothes) will make an enormous positive impact.  Donating or repurposing old clothing instead of throwing it away will keep clothes out of our landfills.

The cotton T-shirt’s lifecycle reveals a heavy environmental toll, loss of biodiversity, and serious human rights issues. I am glad to know that the story of the humble T-shirt need not be so seamy—we all have the power to rewrite its memoirs and weave in justice for the planet, people and animals into the fabric of informed everyday choices.

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33 comments:

Adrian said...

This makes me want to be stricter about my "try to buy all my clothes secondhand" rule.

Daniella said...

Awesome goal, Adrian! Researching for this blog post also helped me to realize how powerful buying second hand is.

Mark Heiman said...

Great post Daniella!
Education is certainly the key...most people don't think about where this comes from and how this is made. Our company manufactures clothing from 100% recycled materials and we use no new natural resources or color dyes. Not second hand but the next best thing. Keep up the good work!
Mark Heiman

Daniella said...

Mark--thanks for reading and responding! And thanks for telling us about your eco-friendly clothes company. Here is the link for any of you out there looking to buy new clothing that is sustainably and ethically made: http://www.repairtheworldnow.com/

Julieannb said...

Ok, ok, I'll try to buy more second hand. And will wash less often for sure!

Rebecca Shapiro said...

Hi Danielle,
What a great article! It fits in nicely with the first one. Now that we buy 2nd hand almost exclusively (it's amazing that I can get my daughter's entire school wardrobe for under $100, including shoes, and most of the clothes are NEW), and we do donate the clothing back to places like Goodwill and Value Village...I still wonder what happens to them once they've finally run out of their use. Wish there was some way to really turn them into something useful so they didn't go back into the landfill.
Rebecca

Mayrene said...

Very well written and although I've only seen the Story of Stuff 1 time, your T-shirt story brought some of the images of that video to mind. I buy about 90% of my clothes now at a recycle boutique - The Discovery Shop - which also supports the American Cancer Society.

Daniella said...

Hi Julie--thanks so much for your comment! Buying second hand is easy on the wallet, gives the planet a break, and opts out of many forms of exploitation--and doing less laundry always sounds good to me too!

Daniella said...

Thanks so much, Rebecca, for your response. Thanks for reminding us how much we personally save out of our wallets when we buy second hand. Wow--an entire back to school wardrobe in like new condition for under $100?! Now that is a "real deal" for everyone and the planet.

I found a short article with some resources on what to do with your clothing when it is no longer donatable--http://www.thegoodhuman.com/2007/06/07/how-and-where-to-recycle-your-old-clothing/

Apparently Patagonia and Nike will take back some of their own clothing. And at recycle.net if you look under "textile scraps" you can find companies that are looking for cloth to recycle--but I'm guessing that they want large quantities.

Daniella said...

Hi Mayrene--it feels good to buy second hand and be supporting a worthy cause at the same time. A mega dose of good! Thanks for your comment!

jennifer said...

Love the article! My friend, Jon, only buys clothes from Goodwill. If he buys 5 shirts, he takes 5 shirts from his closet to Goodwill. Surely he's ended up buying a shirt he had given them. ;)

Daniella said...

Hi Jennifer--I admire your friend Jon--not only is he getting "real deals" on his clothing, but he also keeps his wardrobe simple. I bet he actually wears most of what he has in his closet--a rare accomplishment for most people. He sounds like a master of voluntary simplicity. Thanks for your comment!

Christopher Greenslate said...

Great article.

Judy said...

Thanks for this blog, Daniella! This is another good reminder to buy used clothes and find companies who produce organic or at least fair trade clothing.
I agree with your comment to Jennifer that if we have less clothing we probably will wear everything more often. Getting along with less also gives one more peace of mind. It’s easier to find things in the closet, less time deciding what to wear and less clutter.
Also, laundering clothing less often is an important concept. Here in Ontario the hydro and water usage rates have significantly increased in the last six months and although many residence are in shock and frustration, it does force people to think twice about turning on the washing machine and dryer. I think this will change everyone’s habits for the better-laundering less, using cool or cold water and hanging clothes to dry instead of using the dryer.
As for what to do with old clothing once it’s worn out, besides the age old practice of making quilts, here are some websites about things to make from old sweaters. I’m excited gather up some old sweaters and to try making a blanket. It would be interesting to know what other things that can be done with worn out clothing.
http://a-friend-to-knit-with.blogspot.com/2007/10/new-favorite.html
http://www.squidoo.com/refashion-recycle-wool-sweaters-jumpers-craft-how-to-tutorials

Judy said...

Thanks for this blog, Daniella! This is another good reminder to buy used clothes and find companies who produce organic or at least fair trade clothing.
I agree with your comment to Jennifer that if we have less clothing we probably will wear everything more often. Getting along with less also gives one more peace of mind. It’s easier to find things in the closet, less time deciding what to wear and less clutter.
Also, laundering clothing less often is an important concept. Here in Ontario the hydro and water usage rates have significantly increased in the last six months and although many residence are in shock and frustration, it does force people to think twice about turning on the washing machine and dryer. I think this will change everyone’s habits for the better-laundering less, using cool or cold water and hanging clothes to dry instead of using the dryer.
As for what to do with old clothing once it’s worn out, besides the age old practice of making quilts, here are some websites about things to make from old sweaters. I’m excited gather up some old sweaters and to try making a blanket. It would be interesting to know what other things that can be done with worn out clothing.
http://a-friend-to-knit-with.blogspot.com/2007/10/new-favorite.html
http://www.squidoo.com/refashion-recycle-wool-sweaters-jumpers-craft-how-to-tutorials

Anonymous said...

Hi Daniella

What a wonderful discussion and response to your excellent and timely article. Having accumulated 50 years of "stuff" during my marriage, I can vouch for how much effort, time and money it takes to manage all of our "stuff". I want to downsize! I am supposed to be retired, but I spend so much of my time taking care of the "stuff".

I have cut back on buying and also continue to recycle and re-gift. I also buy second hand mostly because of people like you and others who encourage and remind me to do my part.

Karmen

Daniella said...

Thanks, Christopher!!!

Daniella said...

Thank you so much, Judy for your thoughtful and informative comment! And thanks for sharing the links that remind us that old clothing can be find new life in creative and beautiful ways--like in quilts, blankets, and other beautiful things.

Daniella said...

Hello Karmen,
How easy to is to accumulate "stuff" without even noticing it! Now that we have moved from a three bedroom house to a 1 bedroom apartment, I am much more aware of my belongings because my more modest quarters forces me to live with my things. And how ironic that over time, the things that we own, end up owning us because of all the time we must spend to care for them. Thanks for making that really salient point!

Alicia said...

GREAT article. I am doing better but can always improve. I live in a very warm climate and finally put up a clothesline last year. I still use the drier sometimes but so much less often. As I've stated, I buy second hand or consignment a lot. It satisfies my shopping gene (mainly for my daughter) and recycles clothing. Keep on writing and thank you!

Anonymous said...

Wanted to add on last thought (a bit off subject). We give away furniture or bigger appliances on Craig's list. We list them as FREE with pick up. We put the item out in the garage. The person calls and says when they will stop by and pick up. Presto, they furnish their house free and we don't add to the dump. They are happy, we are grateful. Many charities are swamped with big items, this is a win-win situation for everybody.

Daniella said...

Hello Alicia--how wonderful that you put up a clothes line last year--BRAVO! I always thought that a clothes dryer was a basic need, until I moved out of the US. In Japan, I never met anyone with a clothes dryer--everyone hangs their clothes out on teeny, tiny narrow balconies. And in Germany, the few people that I know that have clothes driers are embarrassed that they have them because they are aware of how wasteful and unnecessary they are. Using the sun more and using the dryer less is a great commitment! Thanks for reading and commenting!

Daniella said...

Hello Anonymous--what a great idea to list things on Craig's list that are free with pickup! All those big, bulky items are given a new life in a new home and are saved from the landfill. Awesome!

Leslie said...

Hi Dani, thanks for reminding me again of the importance of buying second-hand, being more earth-friendly when washing, and donating back. I've been applying the swap-out policy of only buying as much as I donate back for the past couple years, which makes me feel a little less like a conspicuous consumer. Your article also helped me rationalize a little more my Goodwill habit--now I just need to work on the washing situation!
I've been almost unable to walk through retail stores over the past 3 or 4 years. Between the outrageous prices, the poor quality and tacky styling, and knowing where they were made (sweatshops), plus the overall feeling of consumerism at it's worst, I feel particularly lucky to live in a city rich in second-hand stores. Having traveled around America more than usual this year, I've noticed a surprising lack of second hand stores in a number of large cities. Perhaps this is something that earth-smart consumers can begin to rally for?!
Finally, I've become quite the connoisseur of up-cycled products. Check out Etsy for a huge range of re-used and very cool items handmade by artisans around the world.

Daniella said...

Hello Leslie--thanks for your comment! You are lucky to live in a city rich with great second hand stores--I have very few choices here in my little town in Germany--but then again, that helps me to keep it simple and not overbuy. I admire your swap-out policy--great commitment to have!

Etsy.com is really a beautiful website to connect buyers and sellers of beautiful upcycled items and handmade/vintage goods.

Thanks again for sharing!

Sharon said...

Congrats Daniella on a well-written and researched blog. I will share this informative article with my students and co-workers.

Daniella said...

Thank you so much, Sharon, for sharing the blog article forward!

Anonymous said...

Daniella, that's a absolutely great post, i loved to read it! The story from the t-shirts view is fantastic. The lifecycle of our clothes is really scary. Sadly, most people don't even think about it. I must admit that I'm already thinking of that environmental and social aspects, but I don't act consequently like I ought to. I feel sorry and will try to do it better.
Melanie

Daniella said...

Hello Melanie--thank you for reading and commenting! The best that any of us can do is to be accurately informed, and then try to act according to our values. What is important is the commitment to continue the journey to being a better and better citizen of the world! And I am glad to be on that journey with you!

Anonymous said...

How refreshing to read that other humans on this blog are opting out of the consumer-mindset. One would hardly know it by the ads urging us to buy the latest whatever. So thank you, Daniella, for reminding us what we can do to make informed choices.

Daniella said...

Hello Anonymous-I am heartened too when I interact with more and more people opting out of the consumer mindset and making more informed choices! Thanks for commenting!

Second Hand Luke said...

Thanks for a quick post that presents a completely different perspective. We (humans) are naturally used to seeing things from our perspective. Only when we take the time to step back and reflect on the life we are living, the choices we make, and the goods we buy will we see things from another perspective.

The nice thing about seeing (or thinking) about something differently is that you're bound to learn something new. Naturally, the things we have/use require raw material resources to make them, but how those raw materials are obtained along its entire life has a big impact on many aspects (nature, human, plants, animals, etc.).

It's particularly noteworthy that the biggest post-consumer impact is laundering. Wow! I didn't grow up as a line-dryer, but after a small adjustment, you realize how much better it is to line-dry. I think people would be better off using clothes dryers at times when it's most needed, not as a routine in their laundering cycle.

Thanks again for the great post!

Daniella said...

Hello Second Hand Luke (great name!)--thanks so much for commenting. Yes, when we step outside our own skin and look at things from another perspective--from the earth's, from an animals, from a plant's, from a waterway's, etc.--it completely broadens our minds as we stop to consider how our casual choices have a big impact on others that we share this planet with.

I, too, didn't grow up a line dryer--although I remember my grandma hanging her laundry which was just a couple of generations ago.

Wouldn't it be wonderful to reclaim all those great practices and make them commonplace again?! Thanks so much for reading and your thoughtful comment!